Makeup TruTorialTM – Metallic Smoky Eyes

Photographed by: Union Photographers

In this week’s TruTorialTM session, I’m creating a very versatile look that can work for both daytime or evening.  This is a soft metallic smoky eye makeup, and much like a classic smoky eye, the deepest color begins at the base of the lash line and gradually becomes lighter (lightest) as you work your way up to the brow bone.  This look is soft, romantic and sultry all at the same time, and it’s a timeless look.

Before and After

Step 1: Moisturizer, Primer and Foundation
On a clean and bare face, start by lightly applying moisturizer to hydrate the skin.  Follow by  applying a primer, to smooth out the pores and provide a long lasting foundation.  This week, I’m testing out the new Make Up For Ever Step 1 Equalizer Hydrating Primer.  To even out my complexion, I applied Make Up For Ever HD Foundation #118, using a foundation brush. For best results, you want to start from the center of the face and work your way out to the the exterior of the face. Be sure to lightly brush the foundation over the mouth and eyelids to eliminate any redness or blotchiness. Lightly contour the face with Bronzing Powder (MAC Bronzing Powder – $25) as this will provide a healthy warm glow to the complexion.
Tip:
* Do not over apply moisturizer and primer as your foundation will slide off through the course of the day
* For oily skin types, use a translucent powder to set your makeup, primarily in the T-Zone. If you have normal-to-dry skin, you can skip this step as powder may enhance fine lines and make the skin appear dryer.

Step 2: Eye Shadow Base
Using a large blending brush, apply a matte rusty-brown colored eye shadow on the entire eyelid, as an all-over base color.   In this case I’m using MAC “Saddle” ($16).  Blend this color up to and slightly beyond the crease.

Step 3: Eye Lid Definition

Blend long wear cream shadow on to the entire eyelid using your finger or a synthetic concealer brush.  I selected Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream Shadow #14 ($28). This product is waterproof and provides all-day, smudge-proof and crease-proof wear.

Step 4: Blend

Using the same shadow color in step #1 (MAC “Saddle”), blend out the the line between the crease and the eye lid to create seamless finish.

Step 5: Apply color to lower lash line 

Using a small detailed dome brush, or an angled liner brush, apply the same shad0w that was used as the base color, to the lower lash line.  This defines the shape of the eye and creates a soft smoky effect.

Step 6: Apply shimmer to inside corner

For added dimension, and for a little sparkle, use a dome brush to apply an amber-gold eye shadow to the inner corner of the eye.  I used MAC “Amber Lights”

Step 7:  Apply Highlight

Starting from below the eye brow, dust on a satin or frosted finished highlight color (MAC “Ricepaper”)  to the brow bone and blend this color downward into the crease.  This will create a seamless and blended look.

Step 8: Tight line the waterline 

Apply brown eyeliner to the waterline for depth and dimension.  I suggest also rimming the upper lash line to define the base of the lash line.  My staple brown eye pencil is MAC Kohl Pencil in “Teddy” ($16) — a makeup essential!

Tip:

* If you are looking for a little more drama, try using a black eyeliner such as MAC Eye Kohl Pencil in “Smolder” .  For some contrast in color and to make your eye color stand out, try using a green or blue eye pencil such as MAC Eye Kohl Pencil  in “Minted” or “Blooz”

Step 9: Curl the lashes and apply mascara

Curl the lashes and apply mascara of your preference.  In this image, I’m using L’Oreal Voluminous Mascara.  To amplify the lashes and this makeup look, you can add false lashes (individual or full row).  Be sure to apply the false lashes after you’ve applied your eye makeup and mascara.

Step 12: Completed Look

To complete the look, apply a neutral lip color of your choice onto the mouth. I chose MAC “Shy Girl” ($16) which is a cream sheen formula and extremely moisturizing.  I chose this lipstick because it is soft and is the perfect neutral color to compliment the eye makeup.  For a subtle hit of color on the cheeks, I dusted on MAC “Buff” Blush ($22).

Tip:

When applying makeup, always remember D.L.D.B.™ – Dark, Light, Dull, Bright.  When wearing a darker eye color, it’s best to keep the lips light for balance.  Dull is represented by my matte finish blush color, which also provides the skin with a healthy pop of color.  Bright refers to shimmer or sparkle which reflects light, like highlight color on the brow bone.

Happy Friday, Friends!

xo,